Shop the Blog. While phrased a bit differently-we referred to it as the 4 Fs-Fabric(start with a quality textile)-Fit(good pattern work, exact cutting and sewing) Function(practicality, durability and adaptability ) Fashion(style adapted to current era). Id say the same goes for Spier and MacKay and Pini Parma (though to a lesser degree *note: I especially love their trousers). Thats why why love what you do. But most of all I dont like the style. In fact, they also have a handful of flannel trousers in the same higher-rise, pleated model as the covert twills if you are interested. Although even then, if you were to have a suit made by them, rather than off the rack, I suspect theyd try to fit it tighter and shorter still on you. Cavour has covert twills as well, in their more mainstream mid-low rise with the single baby pleat. The phrase classic style or classic menswear is not great. Not the highest quality but classically styled, well made and reasonably durable. One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month. It seems better to spend money on tailoring, than on more stuff, doesnt it? September 11, 2022 . Eg they will fit things tight and short because thats the slightly showy, slightly cheap look that comes across in the advertising too. Perhaps a forum tread ,for example. And that the best value for money is most often in the lower end of the price spectrum he covers the values of the highest quality is more for your own enjoyment. Unfortunately, there is no one out there that covers that level the way you cover the high-end, but perhaps one day. Something I think some magazines would do well to benchmark. I do think its something really worth paying for, particularly in the long run. First, my favourite piece of clothing I bought in 2022. I enjoy its history, psychology, aesthetics, andwith much insight from the reader comments on PSits sociology. Derek at Die, Workwear wrote a couple years ago. No, no reason I havent covered Pini Parma. If you have a read of our in-depth piece on New York bespoke, for example, theres really very little there old guys that are mostly passed on now, and a sprinkling of young ones without much experience yet. Its the same as how interior designers hang curtains all the way at the ceiling, rather than simply right above the windowit makes the ceiling seem higher. Nice to hear Henry both that it comes across well, and that weve been consistent in representing those principles. A lot of expertise is locked inside these multi-generational companies and their staff. In any case, I appreciate the perspective you bring (even if I dont always agree) as youve taught me a lot and helped me develop some of my style. For that, I salute you. We have covered vintage clothing quite a lot, as well as singing the praises of old beautiful clothing (how great things age) plus there has been a regular series of pieces and videos showing how to look after clothing. One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month. Permanent Style is the UK's leading website on luxury, craft and classic style. Surely there are some gems out there that are more affordable. 1/ Personally, for someone who is covering top-end quality products, I think there is a very critical element that you have missed out, which is service. Thanks for the quick reply. Covert twill is not a common fabric in pants made for under $150, and last winter when they were first introduced by Spier & Mackay, I hesitated because of the pleat, and missed out on my size. And of course its a reason to pay for a bricks-and-mortar store too. Shop the Blog Drake's is slightly more of a fashion collection: the range of materials and colours is smaller and changes more often. One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month. *Well, not single-handedly, but you are definitely not alone in requiring some level of sustainability). I notice you hardly mention Isaia. I believe I have acquired a good wardrobe this way. However, we do try to spell out where that quality lies - whether its fineness of work, feel of materials or longevity. Thanks to PS I discovered Private White and Sunspel and have been a customer ever since. I think Natalino has shorter knitwear, but don't remember if any V-necks. I think this article is useful in terms of defining your editorial principles and therefore a degree of transparency as to what you include or not. I hope that will be true for the decade to come. Buy it here. My father supported many of the early business aspects, including the shop, and still runs all the company-level stuff. In my view, brand owners that competes solely on price in an unsustainable way does a disservice to the industry which is already starved of capital. I think on occasion because you cover what you cover so effectively, people yearn for you to cover other areas aswell Bravo! Plus its always felt more honest to use a plural, given how much those freelancers like Jamie and Alex on photography, George for video and my developer Adam, have contributed to the style and the success of the site. On the knitwear, no I wasnt suggesting that the Suit Supply is the same as the Uniqlo just that there are quite a few things a maker can do to cut corners that arent necessarily obvious. But quality is always the driving factor. They are produced across Portugal, Japan and UK (knitwear). The slim fit, low rise trend started giving way to a more comfortable fit, including a higher risebecause after all, properly sitting down is very difficult in slim fit, low-rise pants (I mean properly sitting, where your pelvis is at the right angle for your spine to stack how its supposed to). The space is the former home of New York-style slice stalwart Pizza Luigi . 2023 Mitchell Moss. We do also dress in different things for different occasions and moods, I guess, and I couldnt wear Fukuda and Michael Browne every day. At least here in the United States, the vast majority of the buying public do not care about such principles. Pommella's high price is basically down to hand work. Only problem there is, you get a terrible product, even if its cheap. Mar 1, 2005. I would really like seeing more of that kind of articles: comparing fibres and materials in terms of sustainability and quality. That is seldom the case and often they price compete for five years, puts good brands out of business, and then quits the industry given their unsustainable business practices. It was never my personal style, but to be honest right now its looking more and more like a style from a previous era. Which brings us onto the last area: sustainability. It has come up recently when, This means that the clothing tends to be more luxurious and expensive. Every year, Simon Crompton at Permanent Style does a year-end reader-voted 'best of' post, where readers nominate and/or 0. That is reassuring to hear. In a recent interview he said of the photo See, nothing changes, its exactly what I would wear today . During his career he worked for ABC, CNN and NBC and covered the Balkans War from Kosovo, the Gulf War from Kuwait, and was the first NBC correspondent on the ground during 9/11. It covers wardrobe essentials for any guy who wants to look cool, feel cool and make a good impression. For a brand to be included on Permanent Style, most of the time it must be aiming for a look which is classic and chic. They are also quite highly priced, as you say you could get better value MTM from the brands we cover. Not perfect, but very good, clearly made with passion and care, from a small company that loves shoes and offers good advice. It doesnt matter if a brand is one year old, or a hundred. (Sorry if I misinterpreted you, Simon!). And even if I saved for one particular item I could never wear it with much comfort knowing full well the amount I had paid and being afraid to damage it in any way . Green and White Lightweight Oxford Button-down Shirt. The Harvard loafer is made in dark-brown cordovan, on the 314 last, which is known for being generous in its fitting. Theyre easily worth their price in my view. I like their knitwear, but frankly its not the best (but I also feel having my fiancee buy me that as a present than something from Anderson and Sheppard). This isnt an organic style thats evolving its just fashion. Brioni has generally had a nice, classic style, yes. I think the other forums do an OK job of that Peter. Im a HUGE proponent of pleats. I may have a skewed vision of your influence as a devoted reader of this site. The problem with pleats are the following: Unless your some sartorial weirdo making a conspicuous fashion statement in Bushwick, youll never wear them on the weekends or a night out. Anyway, thanks for your thoughts Mark. Personally I find fashion most interesting and relevant when its more than just for some imagined and biased observer, but thats entirely personal. Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. i disagree with Robin. Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. So we cover brands because of their style, for example, but also because they deliver value. Shops in London/Naples are great (with the occasional trunk show in NYC), but how many of your readers can fly across the pond for a sportcoat? It started with the mini single reverse pleatlike these at Alex Mill sometime around 2015a pinky toe dipped back into the water. Just listen to what they talk about. I suspect theyre inadequate for you, Simon, based on my having read a very large number of your columns. Markus. Even heritage styles are treated with suspicion: gurkha trousers or spectator shoes must prove they can look modern, and not like costume. Yet here I am considering pleats once againnow owning and wearing pleats in 2022 in the form of these higher-rise, single-reverse-pleat Spier & Mackay covert twill trousers. I believe half your audience is from the states. And because, being knitwear, it allows great movement than a shirt or jacket. We wouldnt really cover them as a RTW shirt or tailoring, its really more MTM or bespoke. It has come up recently when discussing hype in fashion, the quality/value aims of different brands, and in correspondence with PRs. In contrast to e.g. Just listen to what they talk about. It reveals not only what we like, but what we think is important. 1. Though I like Suit Supply, and feel it has served a good role for me in terms of building a base wardrobe of jackets (as has Spier and MacKay) and suits for work and leisure, I know (in part because of you that there is better out there). Forgive me please if Im amused that in this particular discussion, Simon, your shirt/jeans should be in the Brummel colour scheme of blue-and-buff, two centuries worth of classic chic. And as for the pleats, I cant believe Im typing this, but I think Im a fan. . Sorry. The fabric blows me away. Our size also means we cant cover everything. And youre right, there are new start-ups all the time that are doing little more than that. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. Second, I don't care about location. #1. Its a sign and an affirmation of what Ive come to expect from PS. Edward Sexton double-breasted flannel suit: Style breakdown, Moulded Shoe, New York: Home of the modified last, The Teba as substitute for a tailored jacket, Collectable cards show the ages of British Costume, Ive come to realise this selection is central to the point and ethos of PS. I do however, I have one exception: I think its ok if you insist on trying them out again, but go for single pleat pants that have a buckle strap rather then belt loops. I find its quite easy to tell what kind of brand someone is running. There are no gimmicks. I hope you dont mind the question, but Im curious why you purchased the Bridge Coat and Wax Walker given theyll have limited to no use in a climate such as Singapores? And they must help customers through all of this, from educated purchase to long-term care. The process sort of involves using a liquid to stick a really small strip (say a millimeter) of fabrics on both sides of a crease together. The black cap-toe oxford. So I know what good quality looks like and can see (or make an educated guess at) where corners have been cut on the item I am considering. Good point on physique though, certainly. As you have probably guessed it by now, I chose olive since it truly resonates with the brighter shades I would use for summer . It could serve as some remedy in the short term at least for the lack of methodology in evaluating brands. After 15 years of being the object of scorn in mens clothing, pleats on pants have infiltrated their way back into the collections of ever more mainstream brands. The priority is quality and style, whether from China or Chesterfield. Great explanation. Its like a camel crew neck and you are facing away from the photo. My Dockers (and my suit pants) all have pleats. TSBB on the Instantgram! I think that is exaggerating things, but Im sure I can do some good. The best argument for location is the same one as heritage: the preservation of skills, through protecting people, who cannot move to the other side of the world. It would be great if someone else covered the extra quality you get by trading up to some brands at a lower price, but Im afraid we cant cover everything. I think the realistic timeframe would be to expect yourself to like the clothes you have for five years from when you buy it. Still tapering down to a remarkably narrow 15-3/8 inch leg opening, theyre trying their mightiest to maintain a slim appearance with that ginormous top block introduced by the pleats. Please do not take this as a critique of your marvellous webpage, which I find most helpful. Im also considering buying a grey suit from them (Loro Piana 130 wool, full canvas) for 890 EUR, which Ive heard is a fabulous price for the quality they offer. Possibly you have in your archives but I may not have seen it. Proper Cloth has a polo shirt option (select "Two-Button Polo" in the "FRONT / PLACKET" section of the "STYLE" tab) and you can select button-down collar. See https://www.piniparma.com/collections/knitwear Personally, I would rather cover someone like Scott Simpson, Paul Vincent or Adam Rogers, even if I wouldnt wear most of their clothes. But its the case with high-street brands too. Sorry that theres no equivalent today. The thing about VC-backed companies that kills me is the timelines. The only other way to get this functionality, if you prefer the slim flat-front look, is to add stretch fabric (which indeed nearly every mainstream brand in the world has done now). 2/ I disagree that venture capital run brands are the worst. Further, for me think very slim avid runner and cyclist, on the shorter side anything that is not sufficiently slim fitted looks quite baggy. I personally would also love a post on tips and tricks of how to buy online and where to find the best servicing online. Certainly they exist. While I guess that Malo might be a bit exotic in Britain so that not covering them is entirely reasonable, are there reasons why you did so far not cover Pini Parma. The Permanent Style readers are a font of taste and erudition, and I know they can be relied upon to highlight any hidden gems or unforgiveable omissions in the comments section. Our aim is to offer exceptional value without compromising on style or detail. Spier and Mackay flat-front charcoal flannel trousers, Flannel Trousers at Spier & Mackay Menswear Musings, Natalinos Accessible, Authentic Neapolitan Tailoring Menswear Musings. Joshua . Working with clients ranging from clothiers to vineyards, he's also covered street style for a number of . J.Crew made a nice one a few years ago, but sadly never restocked. I would say there is no need for you to cover Suit Supply, Simon. most importantly they were able to put 17.5 collar on 16.5 body. Anyway, Im fine with these single reverse pleat trousers and could see myself buying more in the future in certain special fabrics. Service is a critical part of the offering from many of the great brands featured on the site, and can be hugely value-adding, and yet it doesnt get the attention it deserves from both yourself and readers. Could you advise which brands knitwear you are wearing in one of the photos. #4. Whether that is slightly showy and cheap depends on the perspective and stature, I believe. Thats really useful on Pini Parma, thank you. I also know of a tailor who has a machine to create permanent creases in pants. On the marketing of Suit Supply, yes I think the way they market themselves is probably a factor. Nice post. One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 600,000 page views every month, and is read by over 1 million unique users every year. Shop the Blog Sales, growth and celebrity endorsement are all good and necessarily things for the industry to flourish (or just survive). 1,091. On SuitSupply, I havent tried the knitwear. After the group disbanded in 2010, in November 2016, the band confirmed their return to the scene with the . I think the other reason that location is sometimes a helpful proxy is that a brand based in the UK or Italy likely cant compete on price with China given production costs; so you are probably not dealing with a company that is profit-driven. $180.00 Berry Red and White Lightweight Oxford Button-down Shirt. To my untrained eye, the quality of Suit Supplys Merino knitwear is no worse than, say, John Smedleys at least not by much. he brands we cover must be dressing a modern man. Your email address will not be published. We have done some pieces on sustainability in the past see this article in particular looking at different aspects of menswear. Anglo-Italian is more static: its trousers cover most classic colours and materials, but the total is still only 15-20 material/colour options, in one fit and one style. Favourite piece of clothing in 2022: Rubato Officer's Chinos. That might exist:https://www.menswearmusings.com/. Natalino is a cool, newer brand that makes some great clothes at a reasonable price. Reader profile: Patrick. am now maybe on board? Such an important aspect of consumption these days, Simon, did you too read in the news the other day that global human-made mass now exceeds all living bio-mass? Hi Simon, that sounds great. Because I understand exactly what theyre trying to do. And cuffs. But it strikes me that you may be in a unique position to start to hold brands accountable (and you do it seems) for their conservation and sustainability efforts. Try Natalino for trousers . Cheers Simon, . That Tom Ford-esque taste is now considered tacky. While I am here, Ill mention that The Bridge Coat and Wax Walker arrived in the past few days, and are both worthy of your name. I am not sure exactly when Natalino came onto the scene, but I was intrigued from the very start. All these changes make it less useful to plan ahead in 40 years time. Links. Natalino, by the way, also has some twill trousers in their normal single-pleat, high-rise fit: (Help support this site! High wasted, pleated, lovely drape and great quality for the reasonably low price. And the small brands that make up the majority of the coverage are certainly luxury too, given theyre consciously aiming for a very good product and so are expensive. They make great, Italian-inspired menswear at quite affordable prices (both in general, and certainly for what you are getting). Because perceptions of quality can be personal, and just as importantly, what counts as quality varies between categories. Not really its been a while and I dont own either myself. This leads to an integrity of product. Their problem is selling by spreadsheet - using nothing more than sales figures and trend forecasting to decide what to produce. What Ive found useful is to take what Ive learned from PS and apply it to the clothes I can afford. Could you give a short opinion on their quality? I guess some of the slow pace is due to the structure of the classic houses and the way skilled craftsmen work. (i) Pini Parma has a permanent seasonal concept that is, many of their current items are also offered the next year in the same season, I believe. Though you have covered this point elsewhere, personal buying in line with this ethos is easily as satisfying as it must be to cover along these lines. The reason we cover more smaller brands than big ones is that they have passion. Thus, what might be considered well dressed in London does not necessarily translate 1:1 to more Southern European countries. In 1965 Bryan Ferry was photographed leaning against his beloved Studbaker in a dark suit, shirt and tie. You mostly speak to salespeople who know very little. All Rights Reserved. For example, we all know what a normal Shetland sweater looks like. When you login first time using a Social Login button, we collect your account public profile information shared by Social Login provider, based on your privacy settings. . Having grown up around the business of menswear, starting as a teen and continuing until age 70, working as a retail seller, wholesale seller, retail manager-buyer and speciality store founder owner for the last 40 years, I came to much the same conclusions about the clothes as you. The price and value determination came at that point in the process. Im not referring to a commercial MTM set up but a true boutique bespoke tailor. I can see how that fit works better for you. (In fact, they also have a handful of flannel trousers in the same higher-rise, pleated model as the covert twills if you are interested.). They must make clothes that are designed to last, both because of their quality and because of their understated, more permanent style. What such clothes share, for me, is flair. Yes I'd certainly say so. But this is a topic where a professional opinion like yours would be very interesting to me. And from the comfort standpoint, they were great. Our size also means we cant cover everything. Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. Its both more responsible and more satisfying. I fail to understand the contempt that has been poured on pleated pants by fashionistas for the past several years. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. cynical by comparison. (I speak as someone who through reading PS have moved from 30 high street shirts to Simone Abbarchi MTM. ) Yet like these Natalinos, they tapered dramatically down to about a 15.5-inch leg opening. Aspesi, Barena, Canali (Kei blazer), Caruso, De Petrillo, Lardini and Masimo Alba all sell unstructured jackets of one form or another. Thats way nothing wrong to try Brioni bespoke in my mind compare to competitors. My aim, and the aim of Permanent Style, is to look simply well-dressed. Perfect! I've come to realise this selection is central to the point and ethos of PS. A brand has to meet all these criteria to be included. Maybe you could include a little bit of sustainability in your coverage?https://www.nature.com/articles/s41586-020-3010-5. Natalino, by the way, also has some twill trousers in their normal single-pleat, high-rise fit: one in cream cavalry twill, then covert twill in navy and gray. But it is something everyone needs to answer for. But at this basic level of criteria, I dont think flair is a requirement, as there will be many brands I think worth covering that dont have so much of it. There certainly are some great things, but as mentioned we cover the highest level of quality as a conscious decision. Kind regards, I like that they put a lot of thought into the clothes. What is wrong with suitsupply? Im sure you know thoas but I havnt found and coverage from your side. I know this specifically because weve used some of the same manufacturers. They talk on Instagram, or their own website, about the decisions they made and the style they sought. On the value point, Id just say that the best value isnt at the low end of what we cover its at the very bottom of the market. the horrendously baggy double Dockers of the late 90s and early aughts. This is probably an unexpected criterion, but I think a crucial one. After all, the size of Brioni is nothing more than a consequence of their former commercial success, only after the success with suits did they diversify the business into a lifestyle brand. And this one on the experience of improving it at big companies. Ive been very fortunate that the site, its advertising and products, have been successful enough that I dont have to make those kind of compromising decisions. Its from Saman Amel see tomorrows post on their new ranges. I actually have seen more guys wearing pleats on weekends or a night outthough, to be fair, these are guys I know via style websites posting on Instagram. I would certainly miss it if there were never that element of flair it always has a place in the wardrobe. Ive come to realise this selection is central to the point and ethos of PS. Edward Sexton double-breasted flannel suit: Style breakdown, Moulded Shoe, New York: Home of the modified last, The Teba as substitute for a tailored jacket, Collectable cards show the ages of British Costume. I think they are more than deserving of an appreciation thread on here, so I thought I'd start one myself. Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. Yes, being made in England or Italy is still a fairly good marker of quality. They must make clothes that are designed to last, both because of their quality and because of their understated, more permanent style. Its why we cover Rubato and Loro Piana, but neither Suit Supply nor Prada. , even if I wouldnt wear most of their clothes. Surprised you have not included Luca Avitabile's fabulous shirts. Chris Despos is one tailor we have covered, but there are very few like him. There is one in my city but they are rare for sure. You state in the article that you will not cover Suitsupply but to my untrained eye the quality of their products seems good to me at a fabulous price point. Personally, I would rather cover someone like. They very much fit your ethos too. I'm profiling RM Williams soon, spurred by the idea of exploring a traditional menswear manufacturer in a different country and culture. However, I have the same dilemma as some others, as a civil servant most of your suggestions are simply priced beyond me. That should be protected. Ive read some of that, but not all. I sometimes wonder whether the dislike of Suitsupply is rooted in a certain snobbery due to their aggressive approach and marketing, which however does not taint the quality. My two notes in this category are that (a) many jackets labelled 'unstructured' may still have some minimal canvas and (b) these jackets tend to wear small so consider sizing up. And within that, we also tend to cover the very best. Seems so simple, yet I dont know of other publications that have the same guiding star. Second, they give space in your trousers for your body to fold in half when you sit down, thus reducing the chance of tearing your pants at the seam. Im not sure what direction to take more coverage, except for more investigative work on brands. And the higher rise of these barely registers to me when I put them on (a half inch difference in the front rise; not nothing, but not dramatic in how they feel either). Read More. I also agree with your last point about sustainability but where we differ is that I would give it more prominence, not only for manufacturers but also for the purchaser. Natalino also costs more, but is still cheaper than Rubato I think. In my view it all helps lift things up and makes you think more. regarding brands you cover, do you have an opinion on Barba Napoli Shirts or Luigi Borelli? RM Williams Craftsman boot. Buy less, buy better. More to my earlier point, I wasnt so much addressing your editorial decision about how to define the purview of your blog, the criteria of PS coverage. The charcoal flannels pair well with everything. I wouldnt be attracted to them for that reason in any other category of clothing that required any design input for the same reason. But ultimately I just did not like the silhouette they cut in the thighs when seen from any angle other than straight on from the front. Reply. Thanks. Plus Len Logsdail and some English outposts. And also that its very possible to be conservative in your choices here moderation in all things and as a result stay largely affected by these cycles. charcoal flannels in my preferred mid-high-rise flat front. Your points on pure price competition are good ones. Wise words but de facto this is the difference between style and fashion. Its nice to see a fellow reader of PS from Singapore, and I heartily agree with your views and experience of visiting boutiques and shopping malls here. The worst kinds of brands are the venture capital-driven ones, all piling into new areas of growth, whether its menswear or mattresses. Of course, if it fits well, I would still have to go to my tailor afterwards to get it tweaked (or send it back if it does not).
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